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London Fashion Week : From rainbow stripes to high-tide trousers

1. Rainbow is the new woke dress code

With the red carpet blackout sweeping the board at the Baftas as well as the Golden Globes, the colour you wear is now a political statement. The only combination more woke than black? The rainbow.

For his final Burberry show, Christopher Bailey adopted rainbow stripes, a symbol of LGBT pride, as the new check. Edie Campbell wore a rainbow gilet, Cara Delevingne a rainbow fake-fur coat, Adwoa Aboah rainbow stripes on a floorlength white skirt. There were sweeping sequinned rainbow sunsets on elegant silk dresses at JW Anderson and diagonal rainbow stripes at Fyodor Golan.

If you had the foresight to splurge your rent money on the rainbow-striped Gucci sweater two winters ago, that is looking like an extremely wise investment. The rest of us need to keep our fingers crossed that Gap reissues those rainbow-striped Happy sweaters sharpish.

2. Hemlines are staying close to the ground

This is bad news for the economy, if the hemlines-track-the-stock-market old wives’ tale has any truth in it, but excellent news for adult women with jobs, since it means we can continue wearing skirts that require minimum leg maintenance and look nice with flat or low-heeled shoes. I have spent the past 10 days watching catwalk shows in London and New York and I have seen about five pairs of legs in all that time. Skirts and dresses end somewhere between below the knee and ankle.

The update you need to know, however, is that the pleated skirt is no longer where it’s at. Instead, we will be wearing long pencil skirts. At Christopher Kane, they came with long rows of buttons; at Rejina Pyo, these were sometimes wrapped at the waist for a softer shape. This season’s most vogueish way to flash skin is a sliver or diamond cutout at the small of the back in a dress with a long, swishy skirt, as seen at Erdem and Roland Mouret. Very sexy, very elegant and not too chilly.

3. London is keen on green

The Duchess of Cambridge didn’t wear black to the Baftas, but at least her dark, forest-green dress was in one of fashion week’s favourite colours. Green is to next season what lilac is to this one: the novelty-hit shade you can helicopter into your wardrobe to signal your fashionability immediately.

At Preen, there was a deliciously ruched cocktail dress in a lurid green-juice shade. Erdem went with deepest olive velvet and slippery chartreuse silk. Molly Goddard went with bright astroturf, while Delpozo’s polka dots – footnote: polka dots are still a thing – were green on cream. The extra challenge for fashion’s top set this term is to make green with pink work as well as it did at Rejina Pyo.

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